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Container gardens allow people who don’t have the space, time or energy for a full garden to still nourish their green thumb and grow beautiful flowers. Container gardens can look beautiful on a rooftop, on a busy city stoop, on a patio or deck and even mixed in with your regular garden.

Plants are easy to grow in containers and are a versatile way of creating a colorful garden. Containers are great because you can move your plants around to create different effects. If one plant isn’t doing well, or the bloom season has passed, simply remove it and replace it with another container. You can arrange your containers in a group, line them up or strategically place them singly around your yard or patio. Either way, you’ll love this simple way to create a garden oasis anywhere you want.

You can use most anything for a container, but be sure it has good drainage. Try old bowls or antique urns. If there is no drain hole, be sure to include lots of rocks on the bottom of the container. Terra cotta pots are nice but tend to absorb water which can cause your plants to dry out – if you do decide to go with these pots, you can paint the inside with a special sealer to prevent this. Always try to get a matching saucer or use a special plate or drip basin for your containers as this will save your deck or patio from getting stained or rotting.

Always use a good quality potting mix in your containers. This will ensure the best performance possible from your plants.

When planting in containers, be sure to use a good potting mix that has fertilizer appropriate for the plant you will be planting. Do not overcrowd the plants in the pot – remember that with proper care they will grow into the pot and you don’t want them to be overcrowded because they may start to look unhealthy. Be sure to keep your container plants watered but do not over water. Plants in containers can dry out very easily so you will probably have to water every day and fertilize every month.

When planning your container garden you want to be sure to have plants of varying heights as well as shapes and textures. Any setting will look better with taller plants in the back and lower ones in the front. Using annuals that bloom all year will keep your pots looking fresh and beautiful, but don’t forget to add in some nice greenery as well.

It’s best to decide ahead of time where you want your containers to be positioned, and then buy plants that suit the situation. It won’t do to buy sun loving plants if the container is going to be in the shade for they will not do well. Also be aware that some plants have large root systems and are not suitable for container planting.

Some great places for container gardens include the patio, deck, driveway and porch. If you have steps leading up to your front door, an attractive container on each one is a great way to welcome your visitors. If there is a lot of space by your front door group a bunch of potted plants off to one side which will be more visually appealing than one plant on each side of the steps. When grouping your plants, always group in odd numbers and make sure to vary the heights and sizes of the pots as well as the plants.

Container gardening is a great because you can limit the amount of plants you have to take care of. If you only want a few then just have a couple of containers but if you can handle more than go for it. With a little bit of creativity you can create a container garden that will be the envy of your friends and neighbors.

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In my previous post, I talked about setting the fence posts for a 3-foot high fence. The next step is to put railings on your fence.

The further apart your fence posts are, the more likely you are to crack, warp, or sag your railings. I have two spans that are 10 feet apart, and realized after having already set the fence posts that this was not a good idea. My recommendation is to keep your fence posts no more than 6 feet apart (4 feet is ideal if you want strong railings). This provides enough support that you can actually lean on the fence railing.

After your fence posts are plum and have been set in cement for a few days, you can cut your fence railings to size. I encourage you to keep your fence posts at 90 degree angles, as cutting the mitered edges of your fence railing can be a cumbersome and painstaking task. I spent about twice as long on the mitered edges as I did on the straight edges. Be careful – if you cut it too short, you’ll need to scrap it and start over.

I used a compound miter saw for all the railings. The wood was a 2×4 by 10 feet (2 spots) and 8 feet. I also had a few 6 feet and shorter spans for the curved part of the fence.

I placed my railings on edge, as this will result in less sag over time that means you can’t just run it across the top of the fence post, you have to screw it in to the side of the fence post. Having the angles meet up to the 4×4 post can be challenging, even require a recut once or twice. I found it to be somewhat painstaking and suggest avoiding angles if you are able to do 90-degree turns.

After all your fence post holes are dug, it’s time to mix the fence post concrete and set your posts.

It’ll look nicer and save you the hassle of having to trim off the top of the fence posts if you make sure all your post holes are the same depth. Aside from the depth of the hole, you need to be sure the top of the posts are all the same height — if your ground is not flat you may have variations in the height after you’ve sunk the posts.

I found it would have been better to place all my posts in the fence post holes and line them up (adding dirt or digging more) where necessary such that they all lined up.

Mixing Concrete

Mixing concrete is one of the hard labor exercises you’ll get to do! I used an old shovel and wheel barrow to mix the cement. Usually 2-3 bags at a time so I’d have enough to set 2-3 posts. Be careful to over flow it with water too much water and you’ll need to add more cement mix to counter balance. Also, be sure the wheel barrow is on solid ground, the last thing you want is to knock it over and have to cleanup.

Pouring Concrete

Pouring concrete is rather easy. I simply scooped it out with the shovel and dumped it into the hole with the post in the hole. Put one scoop on each side of the post and then straighten the post. You have some time before it starts to harden, be careful not to use too much cement. If you overfill the hole then you’ll have to work around big chunks of cement when planting flowers or bender board later.

Plum Your Posts

Plumming your posts is the most critical part of the process. You’ll need a level with a bubble to be sure the post is straight. You’ll want to plum both sides, so it is straight. Simply put the level along the post on one side and tap the post lightly to get it inline. Then do the same on the other side 90 degrees (not the opposite side). You can check all four sides as well to be sure the post is level. Be sure you’re cement is not too wet otherwise the post can rise up or tilt after you walk away. I recommend checking them again in 30 minutes to be sure they haven’t shifted.

Watch for Water

If you have water in the holes as I did after a recent rain, be sure to use enough dry concrete to absorb it all, otherwise you end up with concrete soup, and your fence posts may float up on you while you’re trying to plum them. I gave a few taps on the top with a rubber mallet to be sure the post had sunk down enough — the last thing you want is to realize the next day a fence post floated up on you, and the concrete has already set.

Be sure to get enough stakes (about 1.5 to 2 feet long) so you can brace your fence posts after you set them with concrete. Nail two stakes across the bottom at an angle — one on each side to brace the post. A rubber mallet works well for pounding the stake into the ground at a 45 degree angle and then nailing two nails into the fence post to keep them in place.

It took me about 7 hours to set 14 fence posts — although the last 4 . About two-thirds of that time was spent mixing, so if you are in a hurry you may want to use the alternative method where you pour dry concrete mix into the hole and get an attachment for the garden hose that you can sink down into the hole to water the cement.

The first-time gardener is in for a pleasant surprise of just how rewarding and relaxing tending the Earth can be. To get started, designate your garden territory and start thinking about what would please you in that empty space. Dream as big as you dare and let your creative powers bring it into being. And with a few simple steps, your garden oasis will be underway.

1. Create A Master Plan.

Before you invest in anything, the first step is to draft a blueprint to optimize your outdoor space and keep the garden in balance. Choose the flowers according to shape, size and color and splatter your garden pallet according to your exact specifications. In addition to planting your buds, be sure to allow some space for garden statuary, solar lighting, pathway stones and any other ornamental pieces to complete your garden collection. The master plan approach will save you time, money and ensure that you get the results you want.

2. Gradual Progress.

Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither will be your perfect garden paradise. Half the fun of growing a garden is the journey getting there, so take your time and enjoy every session. The garden experience can be a lifelong endeavor, even down to the treasures and trinkets you add to the mix. Rather than making your garden art purchases all at once, let life take its course as you find each special touch here and there at a rummage sale or discount outlets in different regions.

3. Minimal Investment.

To get started on your garden space, you need only make a nominal investment for tools and accessories that will last you for years. Your local hardware store should carry everything on your shopping list to include a garden hose with a spray nozzle, fork for turning the dirt, a spade, gloves, sun hat, fertilizer and perhaps some fencing or cages if you plan to grow tomatoes. Your florist in Toronto can supply the seeds. In addition, you will need a means of transporting your materials such as a water resistant basket and perhaps a wheel barrow for larger garden areas.

4. Bring Life To Your Garden.

When you are finished planting, your hard work will have paid off with a stunning and tranquil environment tailor-made for you. In addition, if you wish to attract the locals, birds and butterflies bring a living animation of sights and sounds to your new garden retreat. Add a few stylish bird feeders and try planting some colorful creeping foliage up a trellis to encourage your new friends to stay and rest comfortably. Sparrows in particular are partial to building nests inside a towering Bougainvillea plant, where they may dwell safely from predators at night. In addition, wind chimes make a nice soundtrack to accompany your garden art, adding a tinkling tune to the breeze.

5. Scheduled Maintenance.

The early stages of tending a garden are filled with excitement and anticipation, however, be sure you have allotted yourself ample time to care for the plants over their lifetime. Irrigation must be done at regular intervals and pruning infected leaves is a must to save your foliage from disease. If your garden maintenance is reserved for the weekends, you may wish to install some automated sprinklers to ensure your plants get a drink when you are away.

I’ve decided to become a do-it-yourself-er and build a fence in my garden in an effort to keep the dogs out of the flower garden.

The basic principles I’ve discovered are as follows:

Plant your 4×4 vertical fence posts no more than 8 feet apart (6 is better so the railings don’t sag over time — plus 6 feet is easier to haul home from the lumber yard than 8 foot boards with room to spare for trimming the length).

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Measure out the placement of the fence post holes with stakes and a string to ensure you get the right distance, also be sure to keep the fence line as straight as possible.

If you’re putting a swinging gate in, be sure to measure it large enough for a wheel barrel to fit through the gate. Typically this is 3 feet wide between fence posts.

I opted to make two swinging gates one on each side of the yard for easy access. Most of the area behind the fence is going to be the garden and it helps to bring a wheel barrel in and out from two different entrances.

Year of the Dog trailer In my case, I have a 6 foot yard fence between my neighbors and I — one across the back and two on either side. My garden fence is going to be a 3-foot high fence with posts 8 feet apart and a railing on the top and bottom (set horizontally or “on edge”) with wire mesh to keep the dogs out.

I mapped out the fence line following the curved lawn edge, while sinking fence posts a little closer (3-4 feet in a few places) to get that “rounded” feel to it. The fence won’t have the same curvature as the bender-board that will be placed in-front of the fence, but at least there will be some shape to it besides a rectangle. Map it out on paper before hand so you get a good idea of what you’re doing.

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On to the fun stuff — post hole digging! I’m not a professional, as I said before…keep your self well paced. I can dig 2-3 holes (2.5 feet deep) in a 2 hour period before my wrists and arms started to ache. Allow yourself a few weekends depending on the number of fence post holes you have to dig. I dug 14 fence post holes over the span of 3 weekends. It gets easier as you go, so don’t be discouraged if the first fence post hole takes you 2 hours.

As for the fence post depth — for a 3 foot high fence it’s recommended you sink the post at least 2 feet — two and a half feet is better. I sunk each post 27 inches deep. Don’t go to deep…assuming you have a 6 foot post or 8 foot post you can have some extra room to spare. For a 3 foot high fence and a 2-2.5 foot hole, with a 6 foot 4×4 I will have an extra foot to work with when I start to sink the posts.

As for buying a post hole digger, there are pretty much the same. The two things I noticed were whether the post hole digger had a ruler on it — I highly recommend getting the one with inches marked on the handles, up to 48 inches. It makes it rather easy to not have to stop and use a tape measure to find out how deep you’ve dug the hole. The other option available are the handle grips ( cushioned or no cushions ). The only post hole digger at Home Depot with the measurement markings had cushioned handles — about $30. It won’t make much difference if you’re using gloves.

Before you start to do the actual digging, be sure you’ve marked out where all the posts go. Plant a stake in the ground to mark each post hole (leave about 8 inches in front of the stake for the actual hole). Then run a line of string from each stake, be sure to keep a straight line (go from one corner to the other corner, then sink a few stakes in between to mark where your holes go). Make sure the string is taught so as not to sag or otherwise leave you with a crooked fence line.

When you’re ready to dig, be sure to use what’s known as the “spear chucker” method — where you lightly chuck the post hole digger down into the ground, letting go just before impact — this is critical to avoiding soreness later on. You don’t want your wrists and arms to absorb the impact with the ground so just let go as you chuck it down into the dirt. It will take some time to get the feel of it. You probably will never get one huge scoop in one shot. After digging a few holes I realized the deeper I got, the easier it became if I gently closed the post hole digger handles breaking up the dirt at the bottom of the hole without lifting out the dirt every time. Do this a few times before you pull out a scoop of dirt — you’ll exert less energy and will eventually get down to 2.5 feet without killing yourself in the process.

That’s it for now on post hole digging. More to come as I progress through this project.